Wirral Sunshine

Today I again targeted a Good Beer Guide pub I've never visited, and with the weather set fair it was the ideal time for a Wirral countryside trip.  The bus seemed to take for ever, but at least it gave me the chance to spot the post-lockdown status of a number of Wirral pubs.  Every one I saw was still operational, a surprising and pleasing result.  Eventually, I reached the Red Fox:

An enormous house dating from the second half of the nineteenth century, containing a Brunning and Price multi-roomed food oriented up market place, with umpteen handpumps offering a wide selection of ales, mostly from nearby breweries.  The interior has been excellently preserved and it's very pleasant.

My spot on pint of Brightside Odin had covered 51 beer miles according to the sign, and was one of the most travelled on the list.

At three on a Thursday afternoon they were doing a good trade, although there seemed to be more cars in the car park than there were people inside.  Perhaps everyone else was out on the terrace.

Very quiet background music was mostly hidden by gentle conversations and the clink of glasses behind the counter.

Another new GBG tick, there's only one left to do, so I might even complete Merseyside before the new edition comes out in November.

Next, an extended rural stroll, risking being mown down on the roads with no pavement (It could have been a friendly toot from the van driver but I don't think so.) to the Wheatsheaf which I last visited in 1999:

Wow, what a gem this is, a proper country pub with a thatched roof tucked away in the village of Raby.  The interior features classic wonky beams, and some very old looking wooden seats.  

Four or five handpumps, but I didn't look further than Titanic Plum Porter, which was lovely but perhaps not the best choice on a hot day, Trappers Hat being more appropriate.  £4.50 is a bit steep for Merseyside, I must say.

Gentle conversations were the only sounds in here, as I enjoyed my ale.  Sandwiches and chips were delivered to a nearby table, and suddenly I felt very hungry!

I wondered how many thatched pubs there are in Merseyside; the only ones I could call to mind were the Scotch Piper in Maghull and, much nearer here, the Devon Doorway.

Another rural walk in blazing sunshine, this time on much quieter roads, took me to the village of Thornton Hough and the Seven Stars, where I unaccountably forgot to take a picture, so I've stolen this one from the pub's web site:

Another great rural pub, the beams perhaps not as wonky as the Wheatsheaf's.  Only eleven years since my last visit, and it doesn't seem to have changed since then, remaining very pleasant and comfortable.

After the last two places, only two handpumps seemed a bit disappointing at first glance, but of course one quality real ale is all that is needed, and my Trappers Hat was gorgeous.  I noticed most of the regulars seemed to be drinking lager, that's a bit of a shame.

Again, quiet background music was mostly drowned out by cheerful chatter.  It was past five by now, and the place was ticking over nicely although by no means full.  All the regulars knew each other and chatted (I was sitting in the "bar side")

When I sit in a lovely pub like this I briefly wish I lived in a village with a great pub, but in reality it wouldn't work, I can't see every pub survey beginning with a one hour bus ride!  Just not suitable for my lifestyle, which requires easy access to a train service and shopping without the use of a car.  Oh no, I'm writing about "lifestyle", and after only three pints; better go home!

I contemplated extending my researches but there weren't really any nearby options, so I simply chose the long bus ride back to Liverpool.  Would my bladder cope?  ... It did.

Three beautiful pubs, one never before visited, three excellent pints, some beautiful countryside in the sun, what more can one ask for in a pub survey?  A free lift home?  No chance!

Pub of the day: Too close to call, all three were great.
Miles walked: 3
Maybe coming soon: St Helens

Knotty Ash and an Old Swan Bonus

Other stuff took me to Knotty Ash, so it would be daft to miss a few pubs long overdue for a visit, starting with the Wheatsheaf:

To be honest, I can't really remember what this was like when I was here in 2003.  I think it's lost some of its old features in an excellent refurbishment, but it still has a lounge side with no counter, and some Joseph Jones & Co Knotty Ash Brewery windows.  I'm guessing the table service I noted in 03 has also gone, although there was a steady flow of food coming out of the kitchen, keeping a waitress busy.

Three handpumps on the counter, but all had the clips turned round, so I had a refreshing lager.  A bit disappointing when there's a Cask Marque sign on the door.

The tables outside were busy, with most people dining, inside was not as busy but still a few people drinking in the bar side.

Next, just a little way along the road is the Lord Nelson:

Again, I can't remember back to '03, but I suspect the traditional multi-room interior is pretty much unchanged, apart, of course, from good maintenance.  It's certainly very nice, anyway.  No suggestion of real ale here, so another pint of fizz to keep me going.

A number of older-than-me regulars were chatting, mostly hiding the quiet music.  I couldn't see how many people were in the other rooms or the back yard, but judging by the number coming in for a drink or to visit the toilets I guess there were quite a lot.

What a great example of a local boozer, this, friendly and lively on a Friday afternoon.

Next, I had to tighten my resolve, as there was a target not visited since 1998 not too far away, but I had to walk past umpteen open pubs, including at least one with real ale, to get to the Glasshouse:

Curses!!  Too late.  Whatpub has it open in 2020, but sadly it's boarded up now.

I headed back to Old Swan, where there are a couple of places not visited since 2017 but wait, what's this?  Victory from the jaws of defeat - An unknown one!  Hoggin's:

An "Irish" pub in a shop conversion where the friendly barmaid informed me they'd opened last year, as she poured my Guinness (What else?)

Rather well done plain decor in here, resisting the temptation of over the top fake Irish nonsense.

Busy at four on a Friday, with almost all the tables occupied, and the quiet background music drowned out by animated chatter, which included a lot of swearwords.

Obviously I'm biased because this was a totally unexpected bonus, but something about the atmosphere here endeared it to me, the friendly staff (two) chatting with the regulars making for a comfortable experience.  I was waiting for someone to ask what I was doing with the tablet, so I could explain the guide, but no one did.

Next, a place last visited in 2017, but renamed since, the Old Tavern:

This used to be one of the early micro-pubs, opened in 2016, when it was called the Ale House.  Sadly, it would appear that it wasn't successful in the cask ale format, and under the new name it's all keg.  Nothing wrong with that, my Camden Pale was delicious, but I must comment that it is neither old nor a tavern.

The pale was served in one of Camden's rather unique glasses, like a standard conic but short and fat.  Very unusual and I quite like them;  they seem to fit my hand very well.

Nowhere near as busy as Hoggin's, but still ticking over OK, the rather eclectic music (That means, music I don't recognise.) was mostly louder than the conversations.

I eyed up the counter as I enjoyed my hoppy beer:  Eight taps, two I've never heard of - Pardal and Mago Lager.

Time for home.

Pub of the day: Hoggin's, because it was an unexpected bonus.
Miles walked: 2.1
Maybe coming soon: Thornton Hough, St Helens

Newton-le-Willows

Following on from last week's trip to Hoylake, I decided to continue to search out Good Beer Guide pubs I've not done before, so I headed east in intermittent rain to Newton-le-Willows.  If I'd known it was racing at Haydock today I would have chosen somewhere else for a survey, the train was jam-packed.

First I headed to the Millstone:

Unfortunately it was shut, although it looks like it might be operational, I might have another try later.

Back under the railway and on to the Kirkfield Hotel:

Many years ago, I ignored this place, dismissing it as a residential hotel.  Then, for a number of years, it stood derelict.  So, you can imagine my surprise when it arrived in the Good Beer Guide last year.

It's still a hotel, but the multi-roomed lounge area has two bar counters, one of which supports a selection of handpumps.  My pint of Cheshire Cat was lovely. 

Initially crowded, the place calmed down as large groups headed off towards the racecourse.  How they got there I don't know, a lot seemed to be waiting for nonexistent taxis.  I hope I can finish today's ticks before they come back!

The decor here is modern plain, with the usual pastel coloured walls, and some areas of bare brickwork.  Altogether very well done.

I peered out of the window, the rain was getting heavier and the bridesmaids were getting wet at the wedding over the road.  I dawdled over my pint in the hope it would ease off.

So, after the initial wobble, a good start to the day:  A great pint in a GBG pub I've never visited.

A walk to the far end of the high street took me past a number of targets for later and on to the Oak Tree:

This pub has rather good antiquey decor with some old-ish features retained, although the knocking through has destroyed any historic value.  Two handpumps but no clips, so I just had fizz.

There were still a few besuited groups in here, were they waiting for the rain to stop before heading to the track, or perhaps they'd decided not to bother and have a pub crawl instead.

About half the tables were occupied, with a wide range of customers, and gentle chatter filled the room with muzac in the background.

Now, in heavy rain, back in the direction of the station, and soon a bedraggled wet figure approached the Firkin:

Ten handpumps on the counter, how do they manage to keep the quality high with so many, I wonder?  Suddenly, amongst the array of no doubt tasty beers I'd never heard of I spotted Bass.  It would be rude not to!  It was good but, I think, lacking in flavour a little? 

As my Bass was being poured I studied the blackboard.  An 11% coffee stout looked very tempting, could I resist staying for another drink?  We'll see...

Gentle conversations and the click of dogs' feet on the floor were the only sounds here; the dog that came to visit me was, I discovered, wetter than I.

As I enjoyed my ale, more and more people came in, until the place was quite full.  The rain eased off and the view of the street got brighter.

Over the road to the Pied Bull:

My researches on streetview had shown this place as a building site, so I was very pleased to see this was for a splendid external refurbishment.  The wet weather meant it looked deserted until I opened the front door and found a very busy room pretty much unchanged since my previous visit, filled with happy diners and echoing with chatter.  No clips on the four handpumps so I had Love Lane for a change.

I wasn't allowed a table without consulting the waitress, so I sat at the bar.  Actually, I'm not sure there were any free tables anyway.

No less than six staff were busy organising food and drink, and I was in pole position to observe their work, I watched all sorts of drinks being prepared, including a shot glass of something inside a glass of Red Bull.

I must say, the custom in here was amazing.  Admittedly, I don't often survey on a Saturday, but at three o'clock I didn't expect to find myself in party central.  Good news for pub survival, all they need to do now is add real ale.

Someone ordered a wine so posh it had a cork; the waitress made a right pigs ear of opening it.

Next, Stocks Tavern:

The down market end of the Newton experience, but there's nothing wrong with that.  This is a well done plain two-sided boozer, and it was very busy at four on a Saturday.

Rugby was on the tellies but the commentary was drowned out by cheerful chatter from the many customers.

Three handpumps on the counter but I suspect they are purely decorative, so this time I had a Guinness.

The staff were very busy keeping a constant stream of drinks leaving the servery.

It's great to visit a busy pub like this; while I do like hiding in a quiet corner of an empty pub on a Thursday afternoon, we really need places to be busy to keep them going.  This one and the last are certainly managing that.

Now comes a choice:  Do I try the Millhouse again, or just head for home?

I took the lazy option.  On my way to the station I noted that the former Legh Arms, which was a building site for many years, has completed its transformation to residential use:

Pub of the day: Firkin, for the wide choice of beers.
Miles walked: 1.3
Maybe coming soon: St Helens, Thornton Hough

Belgium!

I started a survey in Hoylake with lunch in Wetherspoon's Hoylake Lights, accompanied by a pint of Coach House Blonde.

A pleasant modern one this, not quite as busy as I expected on a Friday lunchtime, but ticking over nicely.  I guess some of the tourist traffic has been reduced by today's horrible weather.

As with all spoons, a wide variety of customers were drinking and eating, the all day brunch seemed particularly popular.  And tempting, but I'm trying to cut down a bit so limited myself to a wrap.

Next, just along the road is the Ship:

A very pleasant pub, which has a very good beer garden - But not in today's weather.  Sadly, completely deserted at one o'clock, doesn't anyone else want a fine pint of Landlord?  Apparently not.

Oh no!  There's a Dutch-style chip van in the car park.  And I've already had my lunch.  Can I resist chips with sauce andalouse?  That's a favourite I haven't tasted for many years.  Oh well, at least the ale is good.

The two staff busied themselves cleaning tables and chairs thoroughly.  There was a sign on the door asking people to wear masks, which I ignored.  It's about time they peeled all that hazard tape off the floor, as well.

Not much else to report on in the empty pub, the Olympics were on telly, silently, while the music was a bit loud, and in the case of one track, much too sweary for radio!

Next, the beautiful Plasterers Arms:

Off the beaten track and hidden up a back street, I sometimes wonder how this hidden gem survives.  I guess the answer is that it is a wonderful pub.  The interior decor is half timbered in historic style but I suspect it's all fake, pleasant nonetheless.

Excellent ales were on offer, including the splendid White Rat.

Sadly, once again there was hardly any custom early on a Friday afternoon, just one regular standing at the bar while I enjoyed my ale, and actually he might be the landlord?

Why is it I keep seeing Ossett White Rat?  It's hardly a local brew but I've had it in a number of pubs in Merseyside recently.  It's one of my top ales so the more the better as far as I'm concerned.

As I was walking here I noticed a bar not in my database - The Trappist House:

Good grief, a Belgian bar with a beer list to match!  Just a shop conversion, decorated to look like a Belgian bar.  Surprisingly busy, and most of the indoor tables were reserved, luckily I found one free until four.

I perused the extensive beer menu, avoiding the stronger options, this is bar number four today, and I want to do another before I go home.  Aha, an old favourite, Lindeman's Kriek, will do nicely.  But they haven't got any, losing points for that, a real Belgian bar always has everything in stock!

The only cherry ones we've got in stock are the strong ones, said the waitress, so I, perhaps unwisely, tried Delirium Red, which was a gorgeous 8% one.  Wonderful!  I've had Delirium Tremens before (The beer, not the medical condition, although now you mention it...) but this one was new to me.  Served in a Delirium glass, of course; and the bottle delivered to my table.  The brewery logo, by the way, is a pink elephant!

The two barmaids were dashing about frantically to keep everyone served, and doing a good job.

I looked round.  They've got ten on draft, including Westmalle and Kasteel Rouge - which was the other cherry option.

Next, I perused the beer menu a bit more.  There's Rochefort 10, which I have sometimes described as my all time favourite beer in the world.  Maybe next time...  (I could see plenty of them, in fact the whole Rochefort range, in the fridge.)

This is going down quickly despite its strength, I thought, before I realised half my drink was still in the bottle.

What a great place, I'll be back before long I think, for a one bar excursion.  

Before leaving I noticed they've got some of the famous Kwak glasses, I must try that - I'm fairly sure I have drunk some Kwak in the past, but never out of the "flask".  I've always suspected that it's just for tourists, like Scotland's deep fried Mars bar, but I'd love to try it once.

Finally, on to the original reason for my trip today, the Black Toad:

Sorry about the picture, it's the best I could do without a tow-truck.

A Good Beer Guide entry that I've never visited, and the guide is almost a year old.  So, a long overdue pint here.  More of a standard shop conversion micro pub this one, actually two shops I think, very pleasantly done out.

A good range of cask was on offer, I'm afraid my pint of Peerless Triple Hop tasted a bit thin after the Delirium, but after a few mouthfuls it was lovely.

Quiet background music mixed with cheerful chatter in here.  Like in the Belgian bar, groups of Wirralites were commencing their Friday festivities.

In summary, Hoylake must be one of the best pub towns in the whole of Merseyside, with a Belgian Bar putting them well ahead of all the competition.  [Always end your blog posting with a contentious assertion, to encourage feedback.]  I've had four pints of quality cask, and a bottle of Belgian nectar, and ticked two places for the first time, you can't get a better pub survey than that!

The rain which had been threatening all day had now arrived so I was going to get a little wet on my way back to the station.  After all that gorgeous ale, who cares?  As my friend John says, "skin's waterproof".

Pub of the day: Pleased though I was to discover a Belgian bar, this has to be the perfect Plasterers.
Miles walked: 1.2
Maybe coming soon: Southport

Sunny Seaforth

Not really the right weather for a pub survey, but here goes...

Back in 2003 was the last time I visited the Seaforth Arms Hotel, the next time I was in the area it was closed.  It was in my list of "beautiful building, pity its gone" pubs so you can imagine my surprise when I received an email a few weeks ago (Thanks Euin) telling me it has reopened.  Definitely time for a visit:

Would it have been ruined by over-refurbishment?  Happily, no.  Perhaps Grade II listing has helped its survival.

Inside the impressive building a rather fine historic interior remains, including some excellent ceramics.  Only one small room in use, four regulars plus me.  The classic layout of a bar in the corner plus a corridor with lounge rooms behind served from the back of the servery is apparent, but most of the lounge areas on the other side of the corridor have been boarded off, and one of the hatches in the bar back has been boarded up.

Commercial radio and animated banter were the soundtrack.

I felt a bit exposed, perched on a stool at the side of the tiny bar room, and entered my notes on the tablet quickly and then put it away.  As usual, no-one took any notice of me and I needn't have worried.

Work up ladders was going on outside, perhaps a new pub sign is coming?  The current one looks blank.

On to the self-styled "world famous" Caradoc:

This place seemed exactly the same as it was in 2018 and I sat in a large well cared for room with pleasant plain decor, with a counter on a raised area along one side of the room.

Only three regulars plus me formed the custom I could see, but I could hear the clack of pool balls from the other room, which doesn't have a counter.

The only other sounds were quiet racing commentary from a TV at the far end of the room, and the locals' conversations.  One of them was called Phil, causing me to look up a few times when his name was called.

It was very hot in here and I looked forward to some cooler air on departure, but on stepping out of the door into the sunshine I found it felt hotter outside.  Phew!

Next, a geographical quandary; just 100 yards from the Caradoc is the Gateway Hotel, but I have it in Bootle.  One has to draw the line somewhere, but I'm not sure I've got this border right, so I have now amended the database to place this one in Seaforth:

Location notwithstanding, another one that's made it through lockdown apparently unscathed, and the great fun slightly quirky interior remains, well looked after.

The other side looked out of use, perhaps it is now a function room.

About five other customers, three generations of the same family I think, kept gentle chatter going in the background while I enjoyed another pint of Carling.

It seemed cooler in here than the last place, open doors at both ends of the room allowing a gentle breeze to freshen the air.  And also allowing the intermittent roar of Dock Road traffic in.

At this point I'm afraid I decided that the heat of the day (Speke airport were reporting 30C) was just too much, so I abandoned the plan for a long walk towards Bootle, and retraced my steps to Seaforth for a train home.

Pub of the day: Seaforth Arms Hotel, for its unexpected and very welcome return.
Miles walked: 1.1
Maybe coming soon: Southport or Liverpool city centre.

Birkdale Bonus

Now this is where the job of pub guide author becomes hard work:  I got off the train at Hillside and walked past The Pines and The Grasshopper, two Good Beer Guide micros which, when I was here in 2017, served excellent ale.  But I was targeting places visited longer ago, so I marched on and soon reached the Crown, last visited in 2012:

A standard Ember Inns, pleasant enough and surprisingly quiet on a Friday afternoon.  I had to wait briefly to be seated by an efficient waiter/barman who soon brought me my ale, with a CAMRA discount.

Doom Bar and Black Sheep were on the handpumps, I hesitated - Two in the afternoon on a very hot day? - but decided to risk it, and the Doom Bar was fine.

What is there to say about an Ember Inn?  They're all the same.

Immediately across the road is a new(ish) one (The signs say est. 2015) called Taylors, but as I'd arrived it looked shut.  I investigated on the internet:   Google had them open now, but Facebook said 15:00.  As I had never ticked it before I decided to dawdle over my pint until then, chatting to the waiter.  Would it be open?

Yes,  A brand new tick!  An excellent shop conversion, larger than most "micros" and unusually perhaps more like a traditional pub in layout and atmosphere.  Two handpumps, only one with a clip, and my pint of Pride Of Pendle was excellent.

A handful of drinkers in the sunshine outside, and only one other customer with me inside, I hope it gets busier later.  Again I'm surprised at the lack of custom, is everyone waiting for freedom day?

A long walk brought me to the George, not visited since May 2000:

But unfortunately it's closed, probably permanently?  But what's this across the road?  The Woollen Pig Tap and Bake House:

Well I never!  I'd not even heard of this one so that's a real bonus.  Lots of people sitting outside but I headed into the rather warm interior, which is 50/50 cake shop and pub.  And there on the counter is a handpump, from which I had a fine pint of Southport IPA.

I tried not to drool too much as I admired the cakes and donuts in the cabinet in front of where I sat; they certainly looked tempting.  Hot food was also on the menu, from soup of the day to pie and mash.

A steady stream of drinks headed out of the door to the many customers outside, keeping the waitresses busy, I think I was the only one daft enough to sit indoors.

I noticed they open at eight in the morning, I wonder if one can get a pint then?

Next target was another new tick, the Beer Den:

I was slightly concerned here that it might be full, but in fact there were a few free tables inside and I was soon signed in and served a pint of Parker's Centurion.

More like a standard micro, this one, a small interior, pleasantly decorated, plus tables outside on the pavement.  Once again it was a bit warm (The room, not the ale) and I would have headed outside but all the tables were occupied.

Chatter, music on the radio, and the clink of the dishwasher being loaded formed the soundscape in here.

Time to walk to Birkdale for the train home.  I'm not really built to jog to the station after four pints, but I made it with seconds to spare.  Can I cross my legs until we get to Central?  

What an excellent result today:  Three places never before visited, including one never even heard of, taking my total to 1,342.  And four pints of quality real ale.  My decision to eschew the two micros at Hillside was vindicated.  On the other hand, one more pub added to the ever growing closed list.

Pub of the day: Too close to call.
Miles walked: 3
Maybe coming soon: Seaforth

Common

Here's a pub that I walk past numerous times every week, but have never been in.  I rectified that omission with a visit to Common in Huyton's shopping precinct this afternoon:

(Picture taken last year.)

Inside I found a very well done stylish conversion of a former bank.  Actually, it was my bank, and I think I'd rather have access to a local branch than this bar.  (I ensured this problem would never happen again by moving to a bank which has no branches at all!).

The menu looks rather good and most of the three or four customers were eating, it wasn't very busy at four on a Thursday but I imagine it's a lot more popular later.

No real ale, unsurprisingly, so I had something tasty from Staropramen, promptly served by a friendly barman/waiter.