All Hail Free Ale

I thought there might be a little gap between storms Dudley and Eunice suitable for a survey in Southport.  I was wrong.

I arrived in Southport to be greeted by torrential rain.  A brief bit of shopping in the precinct by the station allowed this to ease off, and I set out towards the sea.  Half way there, I was being shotblasted by hailstones and had to shelter in the amusements.

A minute later and it was very light rain, so I headed on, but the rain increased as I approached my first destination, the never before visited Guelder Rose:

This is a standard 21st century chain dining place, surprisingly busy at one on a cold wet Thursday afternoon with many families enjoying lunch.  I bet they didn't walk here in a hailstorm, only your scribe is that daft.

Wainwright and Pedigree were the real ales on offer, I chose Wainwright purely because the person in front of me had one.  It was of fine quality.

The carvery was doing a good trade, and the wafting smell was very tempting.

I kept an eye on the weather outside.  The rain seemed to have eased off but the wind was getting stronger.

Next, another chain place and another first tick, this time a Hungry Horse, the Waterfront:

You know what to expect in a Hungry Horse, and this was pretty much as predicted, but with one possible exception:  I have had poor real ale in other branches of this chain in the past, but the Greene King IPA here was spot on.

As I said in the last place, I expected it to be quiet on a cold windy wet February Thursday, but it was doing a good trade, again mostly family diners.  It would appear that this end of the pub trade is surviving well.

I noticed behind the counter that they have the same "Logwood" food order software as Wetherspoon's do.  I could see four tables highlighted in pink, meaning the food is ready.  Perhaps another waiter is needed.

Next door, the Bliss Hotel advertises a rooftop bar - Perhaps not today!

Annoyingly, the Victoria across the road doesn't seem to be open, despite their website saying 12 and Google saying 2pm.  For some reason this one has never been ticked.

Onwards, to an odd cul-de-sac called Cable Street which mixes three pubs, one chicken shop, and residential properties.  The Fox and Goose and the Ship and Anchor were shut (I think a summer visit may be required)

... but O'Leary's was open, so I headed in to this pleasant "Irish" bar.

To be honest, I can't remember anything from a visit on a pub crawl in the last century, but I rather like this place this time.  The inevitable Irish clutter on the walls seems to have been done with better than average taste somehow.

Sadly, only two other customers when I arrived, and one more just behind me, were not keeping the barmaid busy.  I hope it does better later.

I headed out.  What the!?  The sun was shining!!

Where next?  So many targets from which to choose...  How about The Old Bank?

No real ale, but an impressive choice of craft ales (And Guinness) from which I picked one at random which was delicious.  The friendly efficient barman knew about the beers and advised me.  (Perhaps he was a little disappointed when I said mine was a random choice?)

Up market in appearance (and price) in a wonderful room which, I guess, was a bank.  A bit echoey, I bet it's noisy at busy times.  The lampshades are particularly fine.

The only other customers were a family group with a number of young kids.  Not really the target demographic, I would have thought, but they seemed happy so who's complaining?  The atmosphere did tend towards that of a nursery school at one point, but the little-uns were eventually corralled in their proper place, and then departed at which point it suddenly got a lot quieter.

The barman apologised for the noise, and brought me a free beer as compensation.  Not necessary but very welcome.  Cheers!

Three brand new ticks, the other one new in this millennium, and a free drink, that's a good score I think, so time for home.  I walked back to the station in bright sunshine, a great contrast to the weather earlier.

Pub of the day: The Old Bank.  Splendid architecture and free beer!
Miles walked: 2

Old Swan

Bright sunshine today as I took a short bus ride to Old Swan.  I was here only six months ago ticking outliers and oddities, but it occurred to me yesterday that it is four years since I visited the main pubs in Old Swan.

I started in the Millfield Inn:

One of the former Oak Lodge chain (See this blog passim) with their usual "traditional" decor and split level interior.  Down market, maybe, but warm, comfortable, clean and tidy - Although the plethora of arrows for the COVID one way system could do with being peeled off the floor.

Early on a Thursday afternoon it was ticking over gently with a number of regulars drinking and chatting.

Racing commentary mixed with the chatter, until it was drowned out when a customer fired up the Jukebox.  Play That Funky Music, White Boy.

My mind drifted to the umpteen pubs like this I drank in back in the 90s.  So many of them have gone, sadly missed.  It's pleasing to see "plain" boozers continuing post COVID, I was afraid they would all be lost.

On to the Old Swan:

Is this district named after the pub or vice versa, I wonder?

The pleasant interior in plain style contained a lot more customers than the previous place.  Once again no real ale (I'm not expecting any at all today) so I had a Guinness.

I sat in one of an unusual row of booths which have those annoying high chairs where one's feet don't reach the ground.  Why?  The high chairs are each for two people.  Each booth has its own telly, plus mains and phone charger sockets.  According to the signs you can "Reserve a booth for any occasion!"

There was a massive speaker on the wall above my head, luckily playing quiet background music.  Looking round the room I could see two different horse races and a footie match on various TVs, fortunately all silent.

Again, I was warm (-ish) and comfortable in a well cared for pub.

Looking around I could see a number of customers were actually watching the racing, presumably they had placed some bets.

The pub drunk came over for a chat.  Impressively bevied at half two in the afternoon, he was leaving before he got thrown out, he told me, and heading to the Masons (I might be going there later) even though their ale is more expensive. After instructing me to take care of myself, he weaved his unsteady way towards the door.

Next, I took a look at Brambles.  Would it be open?

Of course it is!

Looking a bit more threadbare than last time I was here, and with only a handful of customers, this one is doing less well than the previous places.  

The plain decor would be rather good if it received a lick of paint and some new carpet.

Silence reigned until a girl used the jukebox, after which the music was louder than is necessary in an empty pub.

The four other customers were gathered around the pool table.  Was the barmaid one of the players?  Yes.

I wonder if the Albany is open?

Once again, did I need to ask?  This rather unusual pub which looks like a few terraced houses from the outside has slightly chaotic decor inside, rather fun I think.  There's a small performance area at one end, containing a drum kit and some microphone stands,  do they have live music or is it just fun decor?

Quite a few locals in at four on a Thursday, keeping the place ticking over nicely.

I've always been rather fond of this pub, something about its hidden location up a quiet cul-de-sac and its external appearance as a couple of terraced houses lead to a great surprise when you find a proper, comfortable, friendly pub inside.  Many years ago I think it had real ale, I'm afraid that has gone but it remains a fine traditional boozer with what appears to be a good team of regulars.

Pub of the day: Albany
Miles walked: 2
Maybe coming soon: I've been saying this for months, but it's still Garswood.

Toxteth

Today, I headed to Toxteth, having noted a small number of targets overdue for a visit.  Once again I was a little worried that on a Thursday afternoon I would find some or all of them shut.

My first objective was the Herculaneum Bridge:

Drat!  The door was locked.  It's also known as Peglegs, which is written on the outside as well as the formal name.

Just round the corner was the Beresford Arms, now long gone and replaced by housing.  Here it is on the occasion of my last visit, in 2003, and today:

On to the Bleak House:

Like Peglegs, it looks operational, but not open at the moment.

Next, possibly the least likely target, as I've got Wilson's Tavern recorded as closed in my database:

As I approached it looked closed although the lights were on.  I took a photo and then walked onwards, but wait!  The side door is open.  I entered the porch but the inside door was locked.  So near and yet so far.  Disappointed, I walked on, but then an angel of mercy emerged from the paper shop across the road and hurried towards me.  "Are you waiting to go in?  Sorry, I had to nip out"

She soon unlocked the door and let me in.  Yippee!

Inside is a rather good two sided boozer, with walls and woodwork painted in the now popular shades of grey scheme.  One side has a rather unusual performance area with a stage and dance floor, under a low arched roof.  I can't remember much from my 2003 visit, but judging by the notes in my database it hasn't changed much.

Needless to say, I was the only customer, and I drank my Carling in splendid solitude, listening to Smooth Radio while the landlady read her newspaper.

Now, what's the name of this place?  The faded paintwork outside still says Wilson's Tavern, but Google has it as the Phoenix, which is the original name I think.  The NHS track and trace sign says Phoenix as well.

Next, a pub much more likely to be open, I think, the Britannia:

Last visited back in the last millennium (1999), when I described it as recently built, this comfortable food-oriented place in the Stonehouse chain hasn't changed much.  It offers great views across the river from a slightly higgledy-piggeldy open interior, or from the tables outside.  I stared longingly at the roasts available at the carvery, with help yourself vegetables.

Ticking over at three on a Thursday afternoon, I could see occasional meals emerging from the kitchen, I guess the sunny weather has brought out a number of people for a riverside walk.

Three handpumps but they didn't look like they had been used recently, so I chose Guinness.

The menu looks good value, fish and chips £8.29.

I wondered what to do next.  If all the pubs had been open I would have finished here, and then looked for a bus or taken the short route back to the train.  Perhaps I should take the longer way back to the station, retracing my steps to check if the Bleak House or the Herculaneum have opened.  There's not much chance, but I don't want to make a special evening trip later in the year just for those two.  It'll be four by the time I get back there, so maybe, just maybe...

Bleak House was still shut, although the lights and even the telly in the bar are on, so I'm fairly sure it's still operational.  On to Peglegs, and YES, it's now open.  Wonderfully, all the fantastic woodwork and tilework is just the same as last time I was here, back in 2012.  I'm not sure what the listing status of this place is, but it certainly ought to be protected.  Sadly, later researches show it's unlisted, but at least it's on CAMRA's list.  They report it as having been built in 1901-2 by Cains Brewery.

Two other customers were chatting with the barman, until they went out for a smoke, allowing me the opportunity for an interior photo:

The two handpumps are obviously just for show, so it was back to Carling for me.

I walked past the former Wellington Vaults where I last had a drink in 2012.  Here it is, then and now:

It achieved a brief period in the spotlight in May 2013 after Prince Charles, in the area to re-open the Florence Institute across the road, was invited in for an unscheduled drink.  It closed a year later and has now been converted into flats.

Now I've ticked three, why don't I re-visit the only other pub that might be available in this end of Toxteth.  Last visited in 2018, what's the chance that the Anglesey will be open?

It is.  No good for anyone looking for an historic interior, because this place has been beautifully modernised, just about retaining its two sided heritage.  Pretty much the same as when I was last here in 2018 but looking round it doesn't look four years old so I think good maintenance has occurred in the mean time.

Quite a few customers in at five, they all seemed to know each other and the staff, so presumably regulars.  The sound of the telly - snooker - was pretty much drowned out by chatter.  This is a great locals' boozer and I was glad to see it doing well.

I caught myself nodding off in my comfortable seat so definitely time to go home; only a short walk to Park Road and a suitable bus.  Quite a successful day after a shaky start, I think, but I'll have to go back for the Bleak House.

Pub of the day: Wilson's, because I thought it had closed years ago.  Or Peglegs, for its magnificent interior.
Miles walked: 3
Maybe coming soon: Garswood

Sunny Southport

I set off in glorious sunshine on Thursday morning and headed for Southport with some trepidation.  Today's plan included a number of outlying Southport pubs, and the effects of COVID and dryanuary might cause some of them to be shut, resulting in a long walk to no avail.  Oh well, the weather's lovely, let's see what happens...

My first target was the Cock and Rabbit, and as I feared, the door was locked:

Not a good start.  At least one source, my own database in fact, reports this is closed so I wasn't very surprised.  So is it closed permanently or just shut on a Thursday afternoon?  Who knows?

Only a short distance further, and I reached the Mount Pleasant:

Would my luck improve?  Oh yes.  A rather fine multi-roomed place, aiming at the dining market but with a large "bar side" for drinkers.  Two handpumps were in operation, and I had a great pint of Landlord, served in a Timothy Taylor's glass, as it should be.

I relaxed in comfort on a leather sofa, quickly moving to a second one because the sun was in my eyes.  Too many cushions, I think.  (In my opinion one is too many!)

Quiet background music mixed with chatter here, plus the occasional bang as the landlady hung up some decorations in one of the side rooms.  No offence is intended but I felt she was a little too old to be climbing up ladders.  Perhaps I'm just being sexist and ageist?

While I'm being ageist, I noted that all of the customers I could see were older than me.

Just a short walk to my next target.  In this quiet empty suburban street it can't possibly be open, can it?  The Zetland:

It's open!  I last drank here in 2002 and I have to say it hasn't changed much since then, when I wrote "a nicely looked after traditional free standing pub with two bars".  I was very pleased to see the place has survived through the intervening years, including the recent crisis.

Twenty years ago I enjoyed Burtonwood Bitter, a favourite of mine going back to the 1980s.  No chance of that fondly remembered brew now, but the Jennings Cumberland was good, if perhaps a touch overchilled.

The music was a little too loud, maybe, but not overpowering.

The real fire under the dartboard wasn't lit.  I wonder if any darts ever fall in the flames, could be an interesting extra hazard if you hit the wires.

I relaxed on a traditional bench seat along the wall, one of those with a gap between squab and back, a classic place to lose one's mobile phone (White Horse, Woolton last year.)  I've often wondered why seats are made this way.  Could it just be because it makes a great place to put the heating?  Certainly there was a comfortable warmth emerging from the gap.  Actually, I should note at this point that both this and the previous place were comfortably warm, something you can't always rely on on cold January days.

I continued to look round.  There's a double mains socket on the skirting board that is upside down.  Perhaps because it's so low that there's no room for flex to enter the plugs from below.  I wonder how that rates in the 18th Edition[1]?

What a great pub.  If this was my local I'd have to give up pub researches and just come here every day!

I dawdled over my pint because the next target only opens at three, according to Facebook; the Rabbit being closed had put me ahead of schedule.

On to the Blue Anchor:

Aha, this one's open as well.  What a wonderful building, I wonder when it was built.  1920s??  Great stained glass, anyway.

No cask I'm afraid (I must update whatpub) so I asked for Guinness.  This came from a can with the use of a surger, I haven't seen one of these for years.  The procedure seems to involve a shot glass of water poured onto the machine, presumably to couple the vibrations to the glass.  I must say it does provide a creamier pint than a plain can, or am I just fooled by the theatre.

No other customers I could see, just the fruit machine repair man who was replacing a circuit board.  I was rather amused to hear him borrow a pound from the barmaid to test the machine, surely his toolkit includes such an essential!

There was a rattle of pool balls from the other bar, so I guess there are other customers, but probably not many.

So, three out of four targets ticked, not too bad.  Should I retrace my steps and try the Rabbit again?  I think not.  I headed back towards central Southport...

Despite it being located less than 100 yards from the station, I've never actually been in the Monument, so now is the time:

A plain but very well done boozer, one l-shaped room with a long l-shaped counter.  No cask, but the Guinness is real keg this time.  It has more body than the surged can version, I reckon.

Ticking over slowly at four on a Thursday, the music mixed with intermittent chat in here.

I guess I'm not the first person to wait for their train here, there is a departure screen provided, although I couldn't read it from my seat and had to use the app instead.  The current offering of half service seems to be working OK, although I'm not sure how it fits with the return to work announced yesterday.  Luckily I'll be travelling against the peak.

A check of my database shows I've got umpteen more targets to aim for in Southport, so I think I'll be back before too long.  For today, four ticks, three never done before, is a good score, giving me a grand total of 1,367 visited.

[1] BS7671 Wiring Regulations.  I've done some research (Thanks Google) and it seems an upside down outlet is not a fail.  I am not an electrician, so this information is worth exactly what you paid for it.

Pub of the day: Zetland, by a narrow margin.
Miles walked: 2.6
Maybe coming soon: Garswood

Sunshine on Smithdown

Oh dear.  Thirteen days in to the year and I haven't done any ticks yet.  Dryanuary?  Oh no, I've enjoyed plenty of good ale this year already, just not in target pubs.  Five pints, all excellent, in Birkenhead yesterday for example - Wetherspoon's, Swinging Arm, Gallagher's if you're interested.  Actually, that day out with friends reminded me I need to do a Birkenhead trip to tick some pubs I wouldn't want to drag my pals to!

Anyway, I can't waste today's sunshine, so a train and a bus took me to the far end of Smithdown Road and I was soon in my first target, the Richmond Tavern:

This has always been a chain dining pub, but since my last visit way back in '06 it has been refurbished nicely and is now an Ember Inn.  The pleasant interior is in their usual style.

Eight handpumps on the counter with only about three operational; my pint of London Pride was excellent.

Not exactly busy at two on a Thursday afternoon, but ticking over, mainly diners finishing a late lunch I think.

I recall a visit here with friends many years ago on a wet and stormy night, where additional drama was provided by the occasional roof tile crashing into the car park.  We were glad we didn't come by car!

Now, down a side street to the never visited Fogherty's:

The style of the interior suggests the place has been here for a long time.  Has it?  Why have I never been here before?  Researches on Streetview show it back to the first picture in 2008, and checking my archives reveals it has been in my database for at least twenty-two years, so there's really no excuse for my failure to tick.

Anyway, a traditionally done boozer in a large L-shaped room, very clean and tidy, and ticking over mid afternoon with blokes of my age and older enjoying ale and chat.

No handpumps, of course, so I enjoyed a pint of Guinness.

They've still got plastic screens between customer and bar staff here, let's hope this nonsense is finished before too long.  I was pleased to see Aussie White on an optic behind the bar, it's getting harder to find nowadays.

Now, on to a place i didn't even know existed until I walked past it on the way to the Richmond, so it's a great bonus tick in 21st Amendment:

I don't know how to describe the decor in this large pub, but I like it.  Umpteen "Tiffany" lampshades, dark green tile work on some walls, dark wood flooring, comfortable bench seats along the walls.  It's all a bit eccentric and, to my mind, rather fine.

No real ale so it was Guinness again for me.

The large TV screen opposite me was showing a wood fire, but it didn't have the warmth of a real one!

Only a handful of customers, some gentle chatter mixed with the music.

In 1933, the twenty-first amendment to the US Constitution repealed the eighteenth amendment, and marked the end of prohibition.

Finally, just round the corner is the Dog House:

Big windows into the street on two sides of this rather fine bar with fun contemporary decor.  Too big to be called a "micro" but it's in that mould.

Two handpumps were operating, offering a hazy brew from local Black Lodge, and Doom Bar.  I've commented in the past that places like this should have an "ordinary" real ale for the customers who are scared of peculiar murky stuff.  This place has nailed it!  (I chose the hazy one, it was gorgeous.)

Not many customers at four, but gently ticking over.  It deserves to be busy later.

OK, time for home, I think.  There are enough bars around here to justify another trip, including Leaf, never visited, and the Tavern Company, last ticked in 1999.  Four ticks, three never done before and one of those never even heard of; a good result.

Pub of the day: Dog House
Miles walked: 1.2
Maybe coming soon: Garswood

Aigburth - Bar Or Restaurant?

A recent report in Merseyale mentioned three new cask ale outlets on Lark Lane, so I decided to pay the area a visit.  The last Saturday before Christmas is not a good time to be out and about, and my train into Liverpool was full and standing (and late), but things calmed down once I was heading out of Central towards Aigburth.

My web research suggested all three were more restaurant than pub, but let's see...

I started at the Old School House:

Definitely more of a restaurant than a pub, but they were happy to provide me with a pint of White Rat which was gorgeous as always.

Quite empty at one on a Saturday with only a few tables occupied.  The waitress guided the scruffy pub researcher to an out of the way corner, so I couldn't see if the other tables were eating, but I suspect they were.

The decor, bare brick and white tiles, makes the place a bit echoey, I wouldn't like to spend too long in here at a busy time, without ear defenders!  Nonetheless, it was pleasant, warm and comfortable this afternoon.

Two more restauranty places to check out, next I crossed the road to the Ink In The Well:

Another one which is more restaurant than bar, but this time there's a small drinkers' area by the counter, to which the waitress guided me before bringing a pint of Boltmaker which, again, was spot on.

The down side of my comfortable seat was that I couldn't see who else was in, but at two on a Saturday I could hear a hubbub of cheerful chatter and the clink of cutlery on plates, suggesting the place was a bit busier than the previous tick.

I think perhaps the decider of the restaurant or bar question is that the handpumps here are hidden behind pot plants on the counter, so you have to lean over, or ask the waitress.  On the other hand, the waitress knew which cask ales were on, try asking in Wetherspoon's and see if they do.

The decor once again has some bare brick, this time mixing nicely with modern wood panelling.

I checked out the drinks menu on my table, it lists a good range of craft beers but doesn't mention cask at all, not the best way to boost sales.

Number three in the list is the Bookbinder:

Another restaurant/cafe, but once again happy to welcome a drinker, although there was significant delay before my pint of stout arrived.  I couldn't quite read the pump clip from my seat so I don't know whose it was, but it was gorgeous.

There were two handpumps, the other offered John Smiths, I didn't know they still make that in cask.

Quite a few eaters were in, the place was doing well.  I didn't see any other cask poured while I was here; it's surprising, and admirable, that they manage to keep the quality up.

Another potential pub/restaurant decider is perhaps a candle on the table, this one and the last had one!

That's more than enough restaurants, I think, so it's time for a pub and, if I'm honest, the real reason for today's excursion.  The only Good Beer Guide entry in Merseyside I haven't ticked is the Little Taproom on Aigburth Road:

An above average micro in my opinion, this, serving high quality real ales.  No free tables (of the three) in the front room, but there's more space in the back - Does it count as a micro if there's more than one room?

My pint of I forget what was lovely, anyway, (although my friend John would have complained it tasted of varnish) and I was entertained by listening in to two blokes playing some kind of trivial pursuit game.

Shortly after I arrived more customers came in, and all tables were soon occupied.

I noticed this place calls itself a "micro pub and distillery".  Do they really make gin in the back?

Having been awake since 4 a.m. to "enjoy" the cricket I was flagging a bit by now, so it was time to head for home. Four pints of quality ale counts as a very good day out, I think, even if three of them were in restaurants!

Pub of the day: Little Taproom
Miles walked: 1.25
Maybe coming soon: Garswood

Bow-Legged in Bromborough

Under the river and along to Bromborough, where I started by looking for the remains of the Archers, one that got away, I'm afraid.  I discovered it's completely gone now, replaced by a housing block called Archers Corner.  Here's a picture from 2012:

On to the main target of today's trip, the Bow-Legged Beagle:

The third member of the chain, I think, and this one has made it to the Good Beer Guide this year, moving it to the top of my target list.

Inside the former butcher's shop I found rough bare brick walls in a corridor bar with a small counter half way along.  The barman kindly handed me some paper towel as I peered through misted up spectacles at the four handpumps.  The decision didn't take long once I spotted Ossett White Rat, one of my favourites.  It was lovely, as expected!

The place was ticking over nicely, at three on a Friday, gentle conversation forming the soundtrack along with a wide ranging selection of music at a comfortable background volume.

I scanned the fridge full of colourful cans from various craft brewers, and my fondness for puns was tickled by "Reptile Dysfunction"!

Next, I ignored two nearby pubs visited in 2019 and headed along to the Merebrook, not ticked since 2012:

I seem to have selected the bar side here, a plain but pleasantly done room with fake parquet flooring.  Quite a lot of customers of all ages were enjoying a Friday afternoon in their local boozer, with chatter significantly louder than in the Beagle.  Racing and women's soccer were on the tellies, but I couldn't see anyone watching.

No sign of any handpumps, so it was Carling for me.

I've no idea what custom was like here two years ago, but it didn't seem like the pandemic was causing people to stay away.  Sadly, many pubs were struggling pre-covid, and so if ten percent of people decide not to come out it could push some places over the edge.  It will be interesting, and possibly very depressing, to monitor closures in 2022.

One of the regulars said "goodnight and god bless" to everyone as he left.  Seems a bit early, it's not yet four o'clock and it's not even dark!

After studying their web site I decided the nearby Dibbinsdale is now a restaurant, and so doesn't need a re-visit, leaving just one more overdue tick on this side of the Wirral, but it's a long walk from here and I'm afraid laziness and the fact it had started raining caused me to wimp out and go home!

Pub of the day: Beagle, of course.
Miles walked: 1.75
Maybe coming soon: Aigburth, Garswood