Saturday 9 June 2018

St Helens Again

In much better weather than last week, I started another St Helens survey at the well known Turk's Head:
A fine pub!  Three rooms, two counters and umpteen real ales.  I entered the bar side which was deserted, and then confused the barmaid by walking via the side room to the lounge side, where there were a lot more people.

I selected an old favourite of mine, Copper Dragon's Golden Pippin, which I used to drink regularly but I haven't seen for some time.  It was as tasty as ever.  Only £2.80, and in a lined glass as well.

The split-level lounge, traditionally decorated with some possibly original features, was filled with a gentle background sound of chit-chat, with the piped music taking a secondary role.

Further considering the architectural features, I decided it was probably all fake, gutted and refurbished in the 1980s perhaps.  The fireplace ceramics might be an exception to this.

Virtually next door is the Cowley Vaults:
This was the Anfield Arms when I was here back in '04, and I was expecting a down market keg place for those who don't like the Turks Head's real ales.  I was totally wrong, and when I entered I saw five or six handpumps on the counter.  I selected another favourite, Oakham Citra, and it was spot on.  I also noted that alongside the ubiquitous Carling they have Kaltenberg and Paulaner on tap.

So, two great real ale pubs next door to each other, the residents of Cooper Street really are very lucky!

Just like next door, the soundtrack here was gentle chatter over music.  Everyone knew everyone else and when Austin came in they all wanted to know how his holiday had been.

Compared with the Turk's, the decor in here was plainer but no less pleasant.  The ceramic exterior is rather good, this was the first time I've seen it in daylight.

As I enjoyed my pint I wondered if the ales might be a vain attempt to compete with the neighbours, but no:  I saw umpteen pints of real ale pulled, at this turnover they will be able to easily maintain the high quality I experienced.  Good thing too.

Moving back towards the town centre, the next pub is the Talbot Ale House:
Last time I was here, the Sportsmans was rather tatty outside, and inside was a clean and tidy keg only boozer.  Here's a picture from 2004:
The outside has been nicely tidied and, good grief, has St Helens turned in to real ale central in my absence?  I entered expecting to have a Guinness and found three handpumps on the counter.  "We've got seven more real ales in the other side" said the landlady, so I headed to the larger room and soon selected one of my all time favourites, Titanic Plum Porter.  I don't recall the price, but it included a CAMRA discount.  And it was spot on.

Again, alongside the bog-standard Carling, Stella, etc. they have Paulaner and another imported lager or two on draught.

There was a pleasant sound of chatter here just like the last two ticks, but this time with Sky Sports News as the background.

The same greyhound that I'd seen in the Turk's and the Cowley came in as I enjoyed my pint.  I guess its owner shares my taste in beer.

I could see a steady stream of cask being poured.  The customers seemed to be a mix of real ale pub crawlers and ordinary locals, which I reckon is the ideal blend for a place like this.

In contrast to last week, there was "proper" rugger on the telly, and in the few minutes I was watching England went ten nil up!

I headed towards the station, passing lots of future ticks, and eventually called in at the Swan:
This classic street corner boozer survives as an island surrounded mainly by modern developments.  Inside it has been knocked through to create a pleasant open interior around an island bar.  The decor is plain and well cared for.

No real ale here, so it was time for a Guinness.  Again a steady hum of chatter formed the soundtrack, with racing in the background.

Time for home.  Coming soon: Vauxhall, and another Smithdown Road trip.

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